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Different types of diamond proportioning


The proportioning – especially the height of the crown in relation to the depth of the pavilion, and the width of the table facet in relation to the width of the stone – is what determines how much brilliance and fire the stone will have. Several formulas for correct proportioning have been developed for round diamonds. Stones that adhere to these very precise formulas are considered to have an “idea” make and will not cost more than other diamonds because of the extra time and skill required to cut them, and because more diamond “rough” is lost in the cutting.

There are several slightly differing formulas for cutting an “idea” gemstone, but each result in an exceptionally beautiful gemstone. Generally speaking, diamonds that are cut with smaller tables exhibit more fire; those with larger tables exhibit more brilliance. The latter seems to be more in fashion today, but, as a common sense may tell you here, both can’t excel at the same stone. A larger table can create greater brilliance but will cause some reduction in fire; a smaller table area can increase fire but may reduce brilliant. The idea would be a compromise that would allow the greater brilliance and fire simultaneously.

When purchasing a round diamond, asked how to make would be graded, ideal, excellent, very good, good, fair, or poor. A diamond with a “fair” or “poor” make should sell for less than a diamond with a “good” make. A diamond with a “very good”, “excellent,” or “ideal” make will sell for more.

Your eye will be responsible for making the final determination. In general, when you look at a diamond that has a lot of brilliance, the cutting and proportioning probably are acceptable. A stone that appears lifeless and seems to be “dead” or dark at the center probably suffers from poor cutting and proportioning. The more time you take to look at and compares diamonds of different qualities and prices, the better trained your eye will become to detect differences in brilliance and fire, lifeless and dullness.

A diamond cut with an idea make will cost more, but that doesn’t mean everyone will prefer stones cut to idea proportions. A diamond doesn’t have to be cut to “idea” proportions to show strong fire and brilliances. No matter what the proportions are, before making a final decision on a particular stone, ask yourself whether or not you think it is beautiful. If you like it, don’t allow yourself to be overly influenced by formulas.  

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