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A Story of Antique Jewelry

Adjust your eye. What may look like cuffs here are actually rings-nice, big rose gold and pave diamond knuckle-dusters. And they were meant to be considered that way: Ralph Lauren had the bracelet shape in mind when he designed these sparklers for his first fine jewelry collection. It’s all about contrast: The way Lauren might mix an elegant evening dress with a coolly worn-in leather jacket is just like juxtaposing these delicate diamond “chains” with weighty bands and a sizable amethyst or praziolite. Wear them everyday; say Lauren, even with jeans and a tee. Or, dare we suggest, polo?

Hey, love your shoes! “A woman wearing a sandwich board that reads WE BUY GOLD AND DIAMONDS calls out as the fashion designer L Wren Scott saunters down West Forty-Seventh Street. They are Lanvin, from Jeffery!” Scott replies without missing a beat, her head held high- higher than most people’s, in fact, as she is six feet four even without those vertiginous heels. “She must be a model!” catcalls another neighborhood denizen. “I bet she’s an actress!”

Scott is antique-jewelry shopping in Manhattan’s notorious Diamond District, a rogh and tumble address light-years away from the gentle recesses of places like S.J.Philips in London or Edith Weber on Madison Avenue, where Scott, a serious collector, is more accustomed to finding her baubles. Or having them found for her because for the past several years, she has been the companion of Sir Mick Jiggers, who along with his other, better-known talents turns out to be quite the expert. “Talk about someone who knows a lot about jewelry-and the most fabulous taste!” Scotts says.

Amid the sartorial styles here-the all black garb of the Hasidic dealers; the guys in jeans toting crumpled paper bags (the preferred carryall for transporting priceless gemstones)-Scotts is the only one clad in an abbreviated, tough yet tender leather jacket and an extremely narrow black skirt whose zipper is outlined with magenta stitches, both of her own design. She has been collecting vintage jewelry since the 1980s, when she was modeling in Europe. “I like mixing gold with platinum, or Georgian and Deco. I don’t treat it as if it’s that precious. If you have it, you should wear it! And it’s fun to rotate it, depending on your look.” This cheerful point of view-be bold! Today, she is a walking illustration of this philosophy: fingers spot 200-year-old Georgian diamond rings, around her neck is a spectacular diamond Victorian choker, and wrist is ablaze with a vast 1920s diamond bracelet.  

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